Sipp’n Corn Bourbon Law Update – Bulleit forces a redesign for Redemption.

Ever since Old Crow and Old Taylor aggressively protected their trademarks in the 1800’s, setting the stage for current-day trademark law, bourbon brands have kept trademark attorneys busy.

Diageo’s Bulleit brand and W.J. Deutsch & Sons’ Redemption brand have been locked in litigation for years, but as of last week, the federal district court in the Southern District of New York entered a permanent injunction against Redemption.  In sum, the court ordered Redemption to change its bottle and trade dress immediately.

In 2017, Bulleit sued Redemption, claiming that Redemption’s 2016 packaging redesign was “strikingly similar to that of Diageo’s Bulleit whiskey and copies the same vintage style and appearance,” and alleging that this infringed on Bulleit’s trademark and trade dress rights.  Redemption responded with bluster, stating that Bulleit’s complaint “is devoid of any merit whatsoever” and asserted its own claims against Bulleit, even alleging that Bulleit had obtained its trademark fraudulently by making knowingly false statements to the Trademark Office.

Earlier this year, the parties went to trial in New York, with Redemption losing its counterclaims against Bulleit, but without Bulleit being awarded any damages.  While Bulleit was not able to convince the jury on the issue of damages, the jury concluded that Bulleit’s trade dress is valid and protectable and that its packaging is famous, which paved the way for Bulleit to ask the court to enter an injunction.

That’s just what Bulleit did after the trial, and the court agreed that an injunction against Redemption was warranted.  On September 7, 2022, the court recounted Bulleit’s use of its iconic bottle for 21 years, that it was nationally famous, and that Bulleit spent $56 million advertising in the five years before Redemption’s bottle redesign in 2016 (a year in which the court noted that Bulleit had $150 million in sales).  It probably did not help that Redemption’s witnesses admitted that “consumers already know and love” Bulleit.

The jury’s conclusion that Bulleit’s trade dress was diluted by the Redemption packaging created a presumption that Bulleit was irreparably harmed, but Redemption still argued that Bulleit failed to prove a loss of any goodwill or erosion of its trade dress.  The court disagreed, finding instead that Bulleit had provided “ample evidence show[ing] a loss of goodwill and the whittling away of the distinctiveness of Bulleit packaging to the detriment of its reputation and its ability to signify to the public that it is a unique product…  .”  When Redemption introduced its new packaging, Bulleit’s growth declined from the high 20’s, to 10 percent, and then single digits, while Redemption earned over $21 million in profits.

So, what does this mean for Redemption?  First, although it might appeal, Redemption has been ordered to stop using its current packaging that looks like Bulleit’s.  Whatever Redemption bottles had been sold by the brand as of September 7 can be sold to consumers, but there can be no new sales to distributors.  Second, Redemption was ordered to redesign its packaging to “convey a substantially different commercial impression.”

While Bulleit’s victory was not nearly as convincing as Brown-Forman’s legendary triumph over Barton in the Woodford v. Ridgewood case, it continues a long line of authority that should keep new brands cautious and should act as a warning to marketers who push for brand redesign to capture the look and feel of popular brands.  Originality is the safest way to avoid expensive lawsuits.

Sipp’n Corn Tasting Notes – Ben Holladay Bottled in Bond Missouri Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

There’s a new bourbon in town with incredible history and the wherewithal to release under the strict rules to be called Bottled in Bond.  But it’s not from Kentucky.  Or Indiana.  Or Tennessee for that matter.

In July 2019, Missouri passed a state law for labeling whiskey as “Missouri Bourbon.”  Not only must it comply with the federal standards of identity, it must also be mashed, fermented, distilled, aged, and bottled in Missouri, and the barrels must be manufactured in the state.  Beginning with distillate produced on January 1, 2020, “Missouri Bourbon” must also be made with corn grown exclusively in Missouri.

Enter Ben Holladay.  With localized climate and geology similar to Kentucky, and better access to prized oak for barrels, it’s a wonder that this area of Missouri didn’t develop as more competitive to Kentucky in whiskey production over the course of history.  Ben Holladay has that history though, dating back to 1856, and it’s picking up making bourbon the right way and labeling it with transparency.  The label shows that this bottle is comprised of 21% from the 1st floor and 79% from the 5th floor of their Warehouse C, along with distillation season and precise bottling date.  The Missouri law and this labeling transparency can give Kentucky legislators and distillers some sound ideas.

Ben Holladay Tasting Notes

Whiskey:Ben Holladay Missouri Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Bottled in Bond.
Age:6 years
ABV:50% ABV (100 proof)
Cost:$60.00

Appearance:
Standard amber.

Nose:
Grassy, dry wood, grain, and baking spice dominate, but I’m not really getting any of the sweet aromas that I expect.  It’s mostly one-dimensional.  I get a little bit of leather with deep inhalation, but we really shouldn’t be working this hard for aromas.

Taste:
The aromas had me ready to be underwhelmed, but I was misguided.  It’s creamy on the palate with a base of leather and dry oak, with intriguing ginger and licorice flavors.  It’s still missing caramel sweetness so it lacks some traditional balance, but the creaminess is so noteworthy that it deserves this second mention.  This is best enjoyed neat.

Finish:
No real intensity and seemingly crisp before it revives itself with a lingering cola flavor, slight tobacco, and a faint slow burn.

Bottom Line
They’re onto something in Missouri.  It’s not robust and instead is an easy sipper, but I’m most intrigued by the incredible creaminess.  The transparency on the label is unparalleled, which earns extra points in my book.  So to sum it up, since Ben Holladay is only available in select markets in Missouri and Kansas, that really means that if you’re traveling through, you have to map out liquor stores on your route.

Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly
sent me a sample for this review,
without any strings attached. 
Thank you.

Sipp’n Corn Review – Beanie Babies or Bourbon?

In Bourbon Whiskey: Useful Alternative Investment or just the next Beanie Baby? (2020), authors Carson Hartig, Conor Lennon, and Keith Teltser studied nearly a decade of bourbon secondary market sales data and considered whether bourbon ought to be considered a “collectible,” like fine art, wine, or baseball cards, or a viable “alternative investment,” due to its persistent large price increases.

The researchers found that from 2011 to 2019, secondary market prices increased by about 7% per year.  However, perhaps identifying when secondary market prices really skyrocketed, between 2014 and 2018, secondary market prices increased 21% per year.

Noting that collectibles tend to yield lower financial returns than stocks and generally have more risk over time, the authors conclude that bourbon might be considered a collectible if those who buy do so for a non-pecuniary reason, perhaps for perceived status of owning and being able to display particular bottles.

While that might be true for truly vintage bourbon and for many collectors, the authors found that, at least with recent annual and limited edition bourbon releases, the secondary market operates more as an alternative investment.  In fact, the research shows that “secondary markets are fueled by demand for recently released products rather than unique or vintage collectible items” and the secondary market shows efficiency in the sense that the price increases are seen across distinct markets. Because of the efficiency of the market and the high returns, the authors conclude, while warning that they do not provide investment advice, that “bourbon could be a viable alternative investment,” at least with regard to limited edition bourbons from the past decade.  As they must, the authors recognize that “realizing those gains is legally troublesome,” but they also promise further research and future papers to examine more bottle-specific details and the systematic risk of bourbon as an asset.  I’ll be looking forward to the next article.

Sipp’n Corn Bourbon Review – Battle of Heaven Hill 17-year Bourbon: Heaven Hill Heritage Collection and Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond.

With 1.9 million barrels of American Whiskey aging in six rickhouse sites, you have to figure that Heaven Hill had room for some more limited editions, and sure enough, Heaven Hill recently announced a new annual release called the “Heaven Hill Heritage Collection.”  The first of this new annual spring release is a 17-year age-stated bourbon using Heaven Hill’s traditional bourbon mashbill (78% corn; 10% rye; 12% malted barley).

The Heaven Hill Heritage Collection will complement the fall limited edition release of Parker’s Heritage Collection, which Heaven Hill explains is “more experimental.”  I’ve also considered Heaven Hill’s twice-per-year release of the Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond decanter series to be a limited edition of its own, and for spring 2022, it’s also a whopping 17 years old (the oldest to date in the series).  I couldn’t think of a better way to try these than together.

Heaven Hill Heritage Collection No. 1

Bourbon:        Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Edition:          First!!
Distillery:        Heaven Hill
Age:                28% 20-year; 44% 19-year; 28% 17-year
ABV:              59.1% (118.2 proof)
Cost:               $275.00

Tasting Notes

Appearance:
Beautiful brown, worn penny, showing its age.

Nose:
Vanilla, oak, old leatherbound books, and deep, deep cherry.  Gorgeous depth.

Taste:
Oak driven in the way that reminds you that you’re kidding yourself when you say six-eight years is the best range for bourbon.  There’s nothing like this kind of oak when a distillery catches it before it becomes over oaked.  There’s still the required caramel and vanilla, along with tobacco, leather, and nutmeg.  It’s downright sultry.

Finish:
Steady, long, and warm with an introduction of nutty cocoa.

Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond Spring 2022

Bourbon:        Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond
Edition:          Spring 2022
Distillery:        Heaven Hill
Age:                17 years
ABV:              50% (100 proof)
Cost:               $185.00

Tasting Notes

Appearance:
More amber than the Heaven Hill Heritage Collection, but still leaning brown.

Nose:
Oak and honey appear first, but what really impressed me was the sweet berries, more like homemade jam.  The aromas are absolutely enticing.

Taste:
Mellow with the plenty of oak, but not nearly as much oak as I expected from the extra aging.  Butterscotch, sweet glazed fruit pastries, and custard all compliment the oak, leather and cinnamon, producing a creamy, balanced, elegant bourbon.

Finish:
Moderately warm but long and sustained.

Bottom Line

We all knew that Heaven Hill has the supply of incredible whiskey that could support limited editions along with a stable of moderately-priced classics, and here’s the proof.  No other distillery has (or can) match the diversity of what Heaven Hill has aging in its rickhouses, and I’m excited that Heaven Hill is now showcasing that it has more than just Parker’s Heritage Collection to add to the yearly discussion about the best bourbon.  At this early stage of 2022, these two are top contenders.

Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly
sent me samples for this review,
without any strings attached. 
Thank you.

Sipp’n Corn Tasting Notes: Larceny Barrel Proof Batch B521 and C921.

I continue to look forward to each of the three yearly releases of Larceny Barrel Proof.  The second release of 2021—B521—is a little higher in proof that A121, and the third release (C921) is slightly higher.  I remember that the first release of the year had distinct black pepper note that mellowed out with some air, so I’m interested to see how the next two are different.

Larceny Barrel Proof B521 Tasting Notes

Bourbon:        Larceny Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery:       Heaven Hill
Age:                NAS, but 6-8 years
ABV:              60.5% (121 proof)
Cost:               $49.99

Appearance:
Standard amber and squarely in the color range for the age (Heaven Hill’s new Bourbon Experience in Bardstown has a cool interactive exhibit that shows color profiles based on age).

Nose:
Savory spices with oak, but also with rich caramel for balance.

Taste:
Floral and spice are most prominent for an overall dry flavor, but it’s on a backdrop of caramel and maple syrup sweetness, which is really accentuated with a splash of water, bringing out creaminess that’s lacking at barrel strength.

Finish:
Crisp and dry on the finish, more than I usually get from Larceny, but a splash also sweetens and extends the warming finish.  There’s a really nice almond that appears on the finish too.

Larceny Barrel Proof C921 Tasting Notes

Bourbon:        Larceny Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery:       Heaven Hill
Age:                NAS, but 6-8 years
ABV:              61.3% (122.6 proof)
Cost:               $49.99

Appearance:
Also squarely on hue.

Nose:
Most oak of the three for 2021, with nougat, brown sugar, and the slightest black pepper and leather.  Really gorgeous.

Taste:
Sweet vanilla, maple syrup, chocolate covered cherries, and dark fruit dominate before oak fills in with a cocktail quality orange zest.

Finish:
Long and dominated by brown sugar, honey, and cinnamon during the fade.

Bottom Line

The three 2021 batches of Larceny Barrel Proof have shown the available variations and room for people to have their favorites.  With Batch A121, I thought it needed some air, with Batch B521, I thought that it needed a splash of water, and C921 I liked best neat—for me it was by far the best of the three.  Even though it was the last batch of 2021, it is probably showing up in many markets here in early 2022, so be on the lookout.  This is a very strong buy folks.

Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly
sent me samples for this review,
without any strings attached. 
Thank you.