Bourbon. Law. Author.
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Bourbon:
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Kentucky Vintage – Straight Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey
Batch 14-11
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Distillery:
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Undisclosed
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Age:
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Undisclosed (but for those who can believe it, the bottle states “This Bourbon has been allowed to age long beyond that of any ordinary Bourbon…”)
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Bottled:
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Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, Ltd. d/b/a Kentucky Vintage Distillery
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Proof:
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90 proof
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Cost:
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$22.49
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My previous posts have probably made it clear that I’m already a fan of Four Roses and its Master Distiller, Jim Rutledge. Jim has been the Master Distiller at Four Roses for 20 years, and before then, he already had 30 years of experience with Seagram’s where he started in Research & Development in Louisville, before moving with Seagram’s to New York and finally to Lawrenceburg, Kentucky. I’ve been able to meet Jim at a number of private barrel selections and Four Roses events, but this Kentucky Bourbon Affair offered something that I might never experience again: I ended up sitting right next to Jim as we worked on our own personal blends of different Four Roses recipes.
We walked from the gazebo to meet with Ashley Jones, Quality Control Manager, who took us through tastings of new distillate of OBSQ, OBSV, OESO, OBSO and OESK. Even as distillate, we could really tell the differences between the floral and perfume notes of the Q yeast, the fruitiness of O and V, and my favorite, the spiciness of K. We also learned about the yeasts, quality control, and the tasting panel that reviews each run.
Al took us from Quality Control to the Grain Quality Laboratory, which is a big name for a pretty tiny building, where we learned about the non-GMO corn, rye, and barley used by Four Roses. Next up was the Control Room and the Fermenter Control Room, where we learned the finer details of fermentation, temperatures, and the magic task performed by the yeast. We toured the production equipment, learning along the way that because Cypress is endangered, a move has been made to Douglas Fir, learning the proper way to stick your finger into a stream of mash, and tasting the difference in mash sweetness when it is pumped in versus its sourness later in life.
When we reached the tail box, a run of OESV was coming off the doubler. We measured it at 73 degrees, with a 147 reading on the hydrometer, and using an archaic-looking Gauging Manual, we calculated the proof at 142. There have only been a few times in my experience when “white dog” off the still is anything other than harsh fire in the mouth; this OESV was one of those good experiences. This distillate even had a flavorful finish beyond the expected warming sensation.
In the meantime, I had my own Very Limited Edition to create. As a blending novice, I gravitated toward the yeast strains that I knew I preferred – the K and the V – so my first few test blends were heavier on those components. I landed on 40% OBSV 11-year, 40% OESK 6-year and 20% OBSO 15-year, which, unabashedly, I thought was excellent. However, I was sitting right next to the master himself, and he whipped up a concoction in a single attempt that blew away my blend. Jim used 50% OBSO 15-year, 35% OESO 8-year, and 15% OBSV 11-year for a blend that was absolutely phenomenal. Needless to say, he knows what he’s doing folks.
This fun exercise involves taking a small sip of Bourbon (neat) to acclimate your taste buds. Then take a small taste of one of the foods followed by another sip of Bourbon. Each of the foods accentuates existing flavors of the Bourbon in its own special way. Some cheeses can coat the tongue and mute the sharpness or burn, while at the same time helping you identify rich caramel and cocoa flavors; fresh or dried fruit will lead you to very different sensations; nuts can help you identify toasted, vanilla and shortbread flavors; chocolates coat the mouth and, surprisingly, aren’t limited to just identifying sweet notes; and the saltiness of fatty cured meat can help you identify drier, oaky and nutty flavors.
Instead of the full immersion of attending events over the better part of a week, my plan has been more akin to dipping my toes, with the goal of selecting one or two once-in-a-lifetime experiences. For 2015, that meant the Maker’s Mark southern style crab and crawfish boil hosted by Bill Samuels, Jr. and his wife, Nancy, at their home on the Ohio River near Louisville.
Litigation tells a great story about the Samuels family, but after getting the chance to talk with Bill, Jr., I saw firsthand how his family has made its mark. Bill’s affability and charm held his audience gripped for the next story. And Bill’s family pride – without being boastful and without false modesty – gives him an impressive command of the room. Combine those people skills with his knowledge of the Bourbon business, and it’s no wonder that Bill, Jr. was able to pick up where his father left off.
Heaven Hill produces those brands for Luxco, and in addition, Heaven Hill has its own popular labels that match the Luxco brands in age and mash bills: Elijah Craig 12, Evan Williams Black Label, and Larceny.
After trying Blood Oath Pact No. 1 on its own a few times, I compared it side-by-side on more occasions with my “Blood Oath Approximation.” As a check on my impressions, I also conducted double blind tests with fellow enthusiasts to compare Blood Oath; my “Blood Oath Approximation;” a 90 proof Bourbon with rye as the secondary grain, which I think is heavy on corn flavors; and a 9-year old 101 proof Bourbon using rye as the secondary grain, which emphasizes more of the rye flavors.|
Bourbon:
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Blood Oath Pact No. 1 – Straight Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey
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Distillery:
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Undisclosed
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Age:
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A blend of 12-year Bourbon with rye as the secondary grain; 7-year Bourbon also with rye as the secondary grain; and 6-year Bourbon with wheat as the secondary grain
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Bottled:
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Luxco, Inc.
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Proof:
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98.6 proof
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Cost:
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$89.99
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Freddie started the tour by describing how buffalo carved the four main roads around Frankfort and leading to the Kentucky River, with inquisitive kids wanting to talk about the difference between bison and buffalo, and how huge these beasts were. Freddie gave just a bit of history about the property and family farmer distilling in Kentucky, but sensing that the kids would be bored with numbers, he didn’t spend long on it. We moved outside for a “hands-on” viewing of the optical illusion painting of a warehouse row, which entertained the kids, and then we walked to Warehouse C.
Freddie explained along the way – and it turned into a theme – that early distillers had to be farmers, scientists, architects, and engineers. While in Warehouse C, the kids could feel the coolness of the ground floor. Freddie coaxed out of them that upper levels and attics in houses were warmer, and he explained that this happens in warehouses too. Just like hot conditions create pressure in a water bottle, Freddie explained temperature and pressure inside aging barrels, with the added dimension of the liquid’s interaction with the wood (interestingly, Freddie only used the words “Bourbon,” “whiskey” or “alcohol” a time or two). The kids got a chemistry lesson without even realizing it.
Chemistry gave way to architectural engineering outside of Warehouse C where Freddie pointed out the 2006 tornado damage. The tornado pulled up massive Sycamore trees and tossed them like toothpicks, and those trees kicked the tornado up off the ground where it peeled the roof off of Warehouse C and ripped off some brick. Remarkably, the tornado didn’t harm the rick structure or a single barrel of Bourbon, or the massive water tower which had been built to withstand everything that Kentucky weather can throw at it.I hope to hear that Buffalo Trace will continue this experiment. If any readers are interested, I encourage you to call Buffalo Trace (800-654-8471) to request the kid-focused tour, and that might help make this a permanent feature.