Sipp’n Corn Review – Glenfiddich 14 Year Single Malt Scotch Whisky Bourbon Barrel Reserve

New charred oak barrels in Scotland?  Maybe this is a sign that Bourbon is gaining even more worldwide traction.  Maybe this is partial recognition that charred oak barrels hold the secret to whiskey – and even whisky.  Or maybe this is just experimentation by our Scottish forbearers and friends.  Whatever it is, I like it.
Talk of Bourbon barrels in Scotland almost always refers to used Bourbon barrels – where in their second life they mature Scotch.  I’ve wondered how much flavor different barrels can impart, depending on things like how long they held Bourbon, their char level, and the type of Bourbon they aged (certainly a high-rye Four Roses barrel will result in a different Scotch than a Heaven Hill barrel that aged a wheated Bourbon, right?).  And how much flavor is left in former Bourbon barrels, as an overall component of Scotch, especially when sometimes the barrels are used up to three times for Scotch?
Now, after aging whisky for 14 years in former Bourbon barrels, Glenfiddich has finished that whisky in new charred American Oak barrels from Louisville’s Kelvin Cooperage, to “deliver a bourbon heart with the soul of a single malt.”  Related to my interest in the influence of barrels, I inquired into the specifics of the finishing here.  Brian Kinsman, Glenfiddich’s Malt Master, provided the answers.
I learned from Brian that Glenfiddich finished this whisky for four months, using a 3.5 char level in the Kelvin Cooperage barrels.  The finishing period may vary, but typically will be three to four months.  Entry ABV at the time of finishing was about 60%, and this percentage does not change materially during finishing.
Glenfiddich used new charred oak barrels for finishing in order to add intensity and sweetness, along with a color more associated with Bourbon.  Climatic conditions in Scotland don’t encourage the same degree of interplay between spirit and wood as in Kentucky, so I expected the contribution of four months to be subtle.  Either way, I envy the research team that got to play with varying amounts of time for finishing before reaching the desired profile.
Tasting Notes
Disclaimer: Glenfiddich kindly sent me a sample
for this review, without any strings attached. 
Thank you.
Whisky:
Glenfiddich 14 Year Single Malt Scotch Whisky “Bourbon Barrel Reserve”
Age:
14 years in former Bourbon casks, finished for four months in new charred American Oak
ABV:
43% ABV (86 proof)
Cost:
$49.99 MSRP
Color:
Bright amber and darker than single malts of this age, presumably from the time spent in new charred barrels.  Straight Bourbon fans will be curious about the color without additives, but this is Scotch, so we’d better get over it; Glenfiddich is able to add a small amount of caramel coloring to ensure consistency between batches.
Nose:
Unmistakably Scotch, but reminiscent of Bourbon at the same time.  There’s some oak, but overall it’s light and fresh, with vanilla, honey, ripe pear and honey crisp apple, and a bit of fresh citrus.  The nose did not pick up much caramel aroma from the new barrels, which I thought it might, or perhaps I’m just used to heavier caramel aromas from Bourbon.
Taste:
First and foremost, this is single malt Scotch; there’s no mistaking 100% malted barley for at least 51% corn plus rye, giving Bourbon sweetness and spiciness.  Glenfiddich 14 Year is silky and rich, with sweet flavors of vanilla and honey, along with light, ripe fruit and orange zest.  The finishing barrels add a lovely subtle oakiness and flavor of raw almonds for a great slow-sipping whisky.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length with lingering warmth, and some more oak, although predominantly sweet.
Bottom Line
Given the origin of American distilling and our shared history, it makes sense that Scotch devotees will want to try Bourbon, and that Bourbon enthusiasts will want to try Scotch.  Those who have not yet found the balance between whiskey and whisky might also have preconceived notions about the other, like Bourbon is always candy-sweet or all Scotch tastes like that heavily-peated variety that took you by surprise.  Glenfiddich 14 Year bridges that gap remarkably well.
One reason that it bridges the gap so well is that Glenfiddich has not tried to create a whisky that tastes like Bourbon, instead finding a way to remain distinctively Scotch while capturing some of the influences of Bourbon.  Glenfiddich 14 Year won’t be confused with Bourbon – it’s missing caramel and a robust punch of spice – so I’m keeping my Bourbon, but I’ll be looking for Glenfiddich 14 and it will get me to try more Scotch, which perhaps was the goal of this release all along.
While Glenfiddich 14 Year is a new permanent member of the Glenfiddich line, it is only being released in the U.S., with plans to keep it here exclusively.  Glenfiddich 14 could certainly enjoy a broader audience, so for those who can get it, I recommend giving it a try, especially the Bourbon enthusiast who is curious about Scotch.
Glenfiddich 14 certainly has the color of Bourbon…            

Sipp’n Corn Opinion: Sazerac Tries to Erase History by Suing the Owner of the Historic Old Taylor Distillery.

When George T. Stagg and Col. Edmund H. Taylor, Jr. parted ways effective January 1, 1887, Col. Taylor left behind the O.F.C. and Carlisle distilleries.  After many changes in ownership and names, that property is now Buffalo Trace, owned by Sazerac.  Col. Taylor, in the meantime, built the monument of a distillery known ever since as “The Old Taylor Distillery” in Millville, Kentucky.  The Old Taylor Distillery closed in 1972, but it kept its name (including the sign), and it certainly kept its spirit and legendary status.  While the brand name “Old Taylor” was bought and sold, eventually winding up with Sazerac, and the whiskey was made elsewhere, the property always remained The Old Taylor Distillery.
After decades of falling into serious disrepair, as noted in an earlier post and countless other articles, Peristyle LLC and Master Distiller Marianne Barnes came to its rescue and have been in the process of returning The Old Taylor Distillery to its former glory.  The new entrepreneurs were very careful to not call their business “The Old Taylor Distillery,” likely because Sazerac was claiming rights to the Taylor brand name.  A geographic location, however, does not follow a brand name that is bought and sold.
This week, months of negotiations and proceedings before the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office Trademark Trial and Appeal Board came crashing down with Sazerac’s filing of a federal lawsuit against Peristyle.  In its new lawsuit, Sazerac claims that it owns the trademarks “Old Taylor” and “Col. E. H. Taylor,” and that Peristyle is offering “event-hosting services” using Sazerac’s brands “and confusingly similar variations thereof.”
But all Sazerac could point to in its Compliant is Peristyle’s use of the true geographic name of the property – a name Sazerac could not bring itself to mention.  In fact, when referring in the Complaint to the historic site known as “The Old Taylor Distillery,” Sazerac ignored that name, and instead called it the “Frankfort Distillery.”  The only time Sazerac used the real name of the property in its Complaint was when it included a photograph showing the old sign still standing above the front door:
Sazerac should know that “The Old Taylor Distillery” is the name of the property, and that using a historically accurate geographic name is allowed.  In the 1880’s, a former ward and protégé of Col. Taylor, James E. Pepper, tried to prevent Labrot & Graham from using “Old Oscar Pepper Distillery” as the name of the distillery that is now Woodford Reserve.  The case of Pepper v. Labrot, 8 F. 29 (C.C.D. Ky. 1881) describes how the distillery built by Oscar Pepper in 1838 became known as the “Old Oscar Pepper Distillery.”  Oscar Pepper died in June 1865, and the distillery was leased to Gaines, Berry & Co. (a partnership that included Col. Taylor), and the distillery continued to be known as the Old Oscar Pepper Distillery.
James gained control of the distillery, but lost it in bankruptcy, and the property was acquired by Labrot & Graham, which continued to call it the “Old Oscar Pepper Distillery.”  James sued Labrot & Graham because he believed that only he should be able to use the “Pepper” name.  Labrot & Graham won the case, however, because they owned what was actually called the “Old Oscar Pepper Distillery.”   The court ruled that reference to “Old Oscar Pepper’s Distillery” meant the place of production, and was not a trademark.
Here, Sazerac seems to be attempting exactly what James Pepper failed to do – it’s trying to lay claim to all of Col. Taylor’s history and anything named after him.  While Col. Taylor certainly made a lasting impression with the O.F.C., he failed there in 1877.  It was after he moved to The Old Taylor Distillery that he became truly legendary through the passage of the Bottled-In-Bond Act of 1897 and through the brand he built at his castle.  That history cannot be suppressed by Sazerac.

 

My posts have recounted over 100 years of litigation between Kentucky Bourbon distillers, but there has also been a tremendous history of cooperation.  Bringing life back to an important, historic distillery, such as The Old Taylor Distillery, is one of those occasions when producers should have banded together and cheered on Peristyle.  Sazerac took the bully approach instead, and should be ashamed for trying to erase history.

Sipp’n Corn Bourbon Review – Four Roses 2015 Limited Edition Small Batch.

I was seated next to Jim Rutledge at this past Bourbon Affair while we blended our own small batch from half-pints of an 11-year OBSV, an 8-year OESO, a 6-year OESK, and a 15-year OBSO.  We learned how different recipes can complement each other, can do surprising things to each other, or can be difficult to fine-tune.  My first few blends were mostly unremarkable.  Then, when I landed on a blend that I thought was fantastic, I got a little cocky and traded with Jim, who had put together a blend that was practically the opposite of my components.  As you might imagine, Jim’s batch tasted like it could have been in the running for a Limited Edition bottling and mine had a long way to go in comparison.
That’s how the Four Roses Limited Edition process works.  They start with a test blend, tinker with it, refine it, experiment with it, and keep trying it until they reach a consensus.  The 2014 Limited Edition Small Batch took upwards of 70-100 test blends (depending on who you ask) before it was finally selected.  This year, however, the 2015 Limited Edition Small Batch was set after only 16 test blends.  Jim and his team knew that that landed on gold.
Whiskey:
Four Roses 2015 Limited Edition Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Total Bottles:
12,672
Age:
16-year OBSK, a 15-year OESK, a 14-year OESK, and an 11-year OBSV
ABV:
54.3% (108.6 proof)
Cost:
$127.00 (gift shop price) or $109.00 retail
Tasting Notes
Color:
Deep amber with that reddish hue that comes with nice age (before turning the corner to brown).
Nose:
Despite being barrel proof, there’s no singe here.  Feel free to soak up the aromas, and enjoy the “K” yeast shining through as I had hoped.  It has sweet scents of caramel, dark chocolate, brown sugar, honey, and dark fruit, balanced with a great punch of spice from the high-rye mash bills, and subtle cinnamon and clove.  Not as much oak as might be expected, but a great deep oak added to the balance.  I love this nose.
Taste:
Creamy – please try the “Kentucky Chew” with this one, and let it coat your mouth.  I don’t usually find the flavor of cherries in Four Roses, but here it is, with just a bit of orange citrus.  The spice is just right, and then transitions to rich sweetness like dark chocolate I detected in the nose, along with honey, cinnamon apples, and more caramel, and a perfect balance of oak and leather.  It’s such a treat when a Bourbon can be multi-dimensional, and this Limited Edition nails it.  Add a drop or two of water if that’s your thing (making it a little sweeter in this case), but this Limited Edition is best enjoyed neat and slow.
Finish:
The finish doesn’t quite keep up with the expectations created by the nose and the taste, but I’m not complaining.  It’s moderate in length, lingering, and warming, ultimately being dry with oak and leather, with just enough vanilla to provide balance, and mint to provide some flare.
Bottom Line:
After two years of winning “American Whiskey of the Year,” with the 2012 and 2013 Limited Edition Small Batch releases, 2014 could not “three-peat.”  This 2015 release should have Four Roses back in the running, and thus far based on what I’ve been able to try this year, it’s firmly in contention.
I knew going into this that I’m a sucker for the “K” yeast.  Private barrels of OBSK and OESK have been some of my all-time favorite bottles, so the heavy use of those recipes had me excited from the second that I first learned about this year’s batch.  Beginning with a fantastic nose (as in hands-down best nose of the year), this Limited Edition does not disappoint.  The balance of flavors is phenomenal too.  The high bar set by Four Roses probably contributed to my wanting more out of the finish – expectations are stratospheric – and with a slightly more robust and longer finish, it would have already been crowned American Whiskey of the Year.  This just means that I’ll have to try it blind alongside other contenders.
While there’s some sentimental value attached to the 2015 Limited Edition because it’s the last with Jim at the helm, this Bourbon blows past sentiment and will be remembered on its own merits as one of the best Bourbons of 2015.
Scores on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.5
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent Bourbon and even worth its high price.
5 – Wow.  I’ll search high and low to get another bottle of this.

Sipp’n Corn Review – Alberta Premium Dark Horse (“Dark Batch” in U.S.)

Thanks to some friends north of the border, I was able to get a bottle of two Canadian Whiskies, one of which is only available in Canada (Canadian Club Chairman’s Select 100% Rye Whisky), and Alberta Premium Dark Horse Canadian Whisky, which was released this past spring in the U.S., but called “Dark Batch.”
Some people have wondered why the name “Dark Horse” would be abandoned in this land where horses are featured on so many whiskey labels.  The answer probably involves the new craft distillery in Kansas, Dark Horse Distillery (http://www.dhdistillery.com/), or maybe the existence of the Dark Horse Wines in Modesto, California, or perhaps Dark Horse Brewing Company in Marshall, Michigan.  Either way, it’s “Dark Batch” to those in the U.S.
Dark Horse is a bit hard to explain, even before getting to tasting notes, so maybe this table describing its four components will help:
45.5%
100% Rye Whisky distilled in a pot still, aged 6 years in new #4 char American Oak barrels
45.5%
100% Rye Whisky distilled in a column still, aged 12 years in used Bourbon barrels
8%
Old Grand-Dad Bourbon (age and proof undisclosed, though)
1%
Oloroso Sherry
Dark Horse hasn’t followed the trend of finishing barrels, and instead it goes right to blending in a small percentage of fortified wine.  As you might imagine, even at 1%, the Sherry notes are much stronger than merely being Sherry finished.
Details
Whisky:
Alberta Premium Dark Horse Canadian Whisky
Distillery:
Alberta Distillers, Ltd.
Age:
Undisclosed on label
Bottled:
Beam Suntory
Proof:
90 proof
Cost:
$29.99  – $34.99 locally for U.S. version
Tasting Notes
Color:
As the name suggests, it’s dark, but it still hangs on to a glint of amber and reddish tones.  It looks darker in the bottle because (at least the Canadian version) uses the Stagg Jr. trick of a big black back label.
Nose:
The nose was more herbal than I expected, along with sugary-syrupy sweetness, honey, dark fruit, pine nuts, and dark, earthy aromas.  But there’s more than just that; there’s enough going on that I found new scents on each re-taste (cinnamon, clove, furniture polish), and I expect to find more every time that I go back to it.  I’m not exactly sure that I like the roller coaster ride, however.
Taste:
This is complex and coating:  root beer immediately, and then honey, vanilla, cherry syrup, and rounded out with coffee, oak and smokiness.  The Sherry is prominent, and sometimes it’s tough to grasp.  Some of the favors complement each other, but others compete.  It never quite hooked me.
Finish:
Peppery but sweet flavors linger and fade softly for a moderate finish.
Bottom Line
I enjoy my whiskey neat, or sometimes on ice, but that’s not where Dark Horse necessarily shines.  In fact, it’s a little puzzling neat.  I’m also puzzled in trying to decide whether to give bonus points for innovation and originality, or deduct points for blending scraps together.  Dark Horse grew on me through my initial course of tastings, but after later tastings Im pretty much done with it.
I’m perfectly pleased to have this bottle as a gift, but glad that I did not buy it.  I’ll be experimenting with cocktail recipes, hoping that the rye shines through.  I won’t go back to it neat right away, but I will eventually.  As perhaps the true test, I don’t really think that I will replace my bottle when it’s gone.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 2.5
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent Bourbon and even worth its high price.
5 – Wow.  I’ll search high and low to get another bottle of this.

Woodford v. Ridgewood – A Court-Ordered Label Change for Barton’s 1792 Bourbon.

There’s no shortage of lawsuits in bourbon history over brand names and images.  Many of those have dealt with using a family surname (link here), or calling a brand “Millwood” and trying to pass it off as “Mellwood” (link here).  While “Millwood” and “Mellwood” might be an obvious case of misappropriation, yet another Bourbon case helped make the gray line a little wider.
In the past year, consumers have noticed that Barton’s 1792 Ridgemont Reserve (owned by Sazerac) received an updated label design and name change.  Now “Ridgemont Reserve” has been abandoned and replaced with the words “Small Batch Bourbon.”  Sazerac explained the name change as being designed to emphasize “small batch” (which of course has no legal meaning) and because they wanted a “modern, sophisticated, and stylish package” so that it would “appeal to consumers who have a discerning taste for premium bourbon, and want a glamorous package too.”
I’ve seen this referenced as 1792’s first label update since it was introduced, but there was actually an earlier label with a slightly different name – “RidgewoodReserve” – that allegedly tried to misappropriate Woodford Reserve’s logo, trademarked label design and flask-shaped bottle.
The evolution of 1792
Brown-Forman (the owner of Woodford Reserve in Versailles, Kentucky) took exception to Barton’s new brand that had the look, feel and sound of Woodford Reserve, and it sued Barton in federal court in Louisville in October 2003.  After only about six months (which is ludicrously fast for lawsuits) a trial was held and the court issued its ruling:  Barton had infringed on Woodford Reserve’s trademarks.
In Brown-Forman Corp. v. Barton Inc., No. 3:03-cv-00648-JBC (W.D. Ky.), the evidence showed that the marketers for Barton decided the best way for Barton to launch a new premium brand would be by “tying the product to geographic locations, historical figures or to bourbon history.”  Since the word “Ridgewood” was pulled straight out of thin air, the marketers “named” the existing still at the Barton Distillery the “Legendary Ridgewood Still.”  That’s right – overnight the still became “legendary” and had a name, all for the purpose of “legitimizing the Ridgewood Reserve name.”
Additionally, instead of creating a new and distinctive bottle or label, Brown-Forman found proof that the marketers were going for the “Woodford feel,” “with a goal of having a design equal to or better than Woodford Reserve or Jefferson Reserve.”
A company faced with a trademark infringement claim has a few options; Barton chose to go on the offensive with a countersuit.  While denying all along that it had infringed upon any Woodford Reserve trademarks, Barton decided to make its own claims which upped the ante and threatened the very essence of Woodford Reserve.  Barton brought to light a fact that it alleged was hidden from Woodford’s website or other marketing efforts:  the real source of the Bourbon in your Woodford bottle.
Barton alleged that Woodford Reserve had been touting its three copper pot stills, its cypress vats, its local limestone spring water, and its historic location, but that those marketing efforts were false, in violation of the Lanham Act (a federal law which prohibits any “false or misleading description of fact, or false or misleading representations of fact which … in commercial advertising or promotion, misrepresent the nature, characteristic, [or] qualities … of goods, services, or commercial activities.”).  Barton argued that these marketing efforts were exponentially worse than the “puffery” of Barton calling its still “legendary” or naming it the “Ridgewood Still” just before the launch of its new premium Bourbon.
Barton based its allegations on testimony from a Brown-Forman executive that Bourbon sold as “Woodford Reserve” was actually a blend containing someBourbon distilled in pot stills at the historic Woodford Reserve Distillery, but mostly Bourbon distilled in a column still at Brown-Forman’s distillery in Louisville, using Louisville water, and also aged in Louisville before being relocated to Versailles for additional aging.  Moreover, Barton alleged that until May 2003, every single drop of Woodford Reserve actually originated from Brown-Forman’s distillery in Louisville.  Basically, Barton alleged that Woodford Reserve was Old Forester in disguise.
It was true then – just as it is still true today – that Woodford Reserve and Old Forester share the same mash bill (72% corn; 18% rye; 10% malted barley) and yeast strain, and that Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select contains Bourbon distilled both in Versailles and Louisville.  Chris Morris has acknowledged this many times (although, in my personal experience, some tour guides at Woodford Reserve have been evasive about the subject).
Even though Barton alleged that regular consumers were misled about “the true facts regarding the making of Woodford Reserve,” Brown-Forman was able to come up with enough proof of its disclosures to fight back against Barton.  For instance, the side label on Woodford Reserve at the time disclosed that Woodford Reserve is “distilled for, aged and bottled by Labrot & Graham Distillers Co., Versailles, Kentucky.”  The “distilled for” disclosure is yet another lesson in closely reading Bourbon labels.
Maturedin the heart of Kentucky’s horse county”
doesn’t mean that it was distilled there.
Brown-Forman was so successful in its defense that Barton ultimately dropped its countersuit against Woodford.  And then Brown-Forman refocused on its own claims.  After trial, the Court entered an injunction against Barton for violating Woodford Reserve trademarks, it barred Barton from selling, shipping, advertising, or marketing Ridgewood Reserve, it ordered Barton to stop distributors and retailers from selling Ridgewood Reserve, and only allowed bottles currently in stock at retailers to be sold for 60 days.  “Ridgewood” became “Ridgemont” and the old name and legend vanished.

 

That’s the real story of the first label change for Barton 1792, and the so-called “Legendary Ridgewood Still.”