Bourbon. Law. Author.
Posted on January 25, 2020 by Brian Haara
Until just over a year ago, Heaven Hill had the hands-down best price performer in all of Bourbon—a six-year age stated Bottled in Bond for only $11.99. In previous posts I had called it the standard-bearer for all of the new “craft” whiskies; if one of those new $50.00 whiskies couldn’t be better than Heaven Hill 6-year Bottled in Bond, then why bother?
But it was such a limited release and there really wasn’t any way that it could be profitable for Heaven Hill. We Kentuckians loved having it and outsiders loved finding it when they visited, but I think that everyone knew that it couldn’t possibly survive the bourbon boom.
After being rumored a few times, the news finally became official—Heaven Hill discontinued its namesake 6-year Bottled in Bond. Some stores immediately raised the price, all local stores limited the number of bottles that could be purchased, and the secondary market price reached $40-50 per bottle and higher.
Then last June came the announcement that many of us figured was destined to follow—the release of a new 7-year Bottled in Bond in a beautifully-labeled bottle with a real cork closure and a suggested retail price of $39.99.
Heaven Hill was already the leading distillery with the most Bottled in Bond brands. It’s a nod to history, quality, and heritage, and I’m thankful that Heaven Hill embraces the tradition of Bottled in Bond. This new 7-year brand also brings with it a style that among Heaven Hill’s other Bottled in Bond brands is only outdone by the gorgeous Old Fitzgerald decanter series. I was excited to receive a bottle because it has limited distribution which does not include Kentucky, and I wanted to compare it to the former 6-year brand.
Heaven Hill 7-year Bottled in Bond Tasting Notes
Bourbon: Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Heaven Hill
Age: 7 years
ABV: 50% (100 proof)
Cost: $39.99
Appearance:
Amber copper.
Nose:
Beautiful oak with traditional caramel and vanilla, layer of mint, and leather.
Taste:
Caramel and vanilla, of course, and more rich sweetness like toffee, balanced with cinnamon, oak, and that leather-tobacco flavor that I usually find only on older bourbon. The balance is tremendous.
Finish:
Medium in length, again with great balance. This is an absolute classic bourbon.
Bottom Line
Let the people gripe about losing a value; Heaven Hill 7-year Bottled in Bond is delicious and worth every penny of its price. It’s still a value and a must-try.
Currently you’ll only be able to find Heaven Hill 7-year in California, Texas, New York, Georgia, Florida, Illinois, South Carolina, and Colorado, but hopefully Kentucky is not too far behind.
Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly
sent me a bottle for this review, without any
strings attached. Thank you.
Posted on January 21, 2020 by Brian Haara
Every year I look forward to what Steve and Paul Beam put together for their Yellowstone Limited Edition. I think that others must be catching on, because I used to be able to buy it, and now all I have is this sample bottle. I’m eager to see what I almost missed out on.
Yellowstone 2019 Limited Edition Tasting Notes
Bourbon: Yellowstone 2019 Limited Edition Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Undisclosed
Age: 9 years
ABV: 50.5% (101 proof)
Cost: $99.99
Appearance:
The brown side of amber.
Nose:
Classic caramel, dark red fruit and candy store sugar, white chocolate, and oak.
Taste:
Caramel, cherry, and milk chocolate balanced by oak and cinnamon.
Finish:
Long with building warmth and satisfying nuttiness. After the swell it leaves you with a lingering warm, sweet fade. This is an outstanding finish.
Bottom Line
Another year and another homerun for Yellowstone. In fact, this Yellowstone might be the best yet. The balance is remarkable but it’s really the finish where this bourbon shines; with each sip I contemplated the swells and fades. Overall, its sweetness and proof give it approachability for new bourbon drinkers and its elegance and finish will impress the most experienced enthusiasts.
Wherever you are on your personal bourbon journey, I highly recommend the 2019 Yellowstone Limited Edition.
Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly sent me a sample
for this review, without any strings attached.
Thank you.
Posted on January 9, 2020 by Brian Haara
Here’s the last batch of 2019 for one of my favorite bourbons—Elijah Craig 12-year Barrel Proof. And the first batch ever for what is bound to be another of my favorite bourbons—Larceny Barrel Proof. Plus, the oldest Old Fitzgerald in the decanter series, the fall release of a 15-year old Bottled in Bond beauty.
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof C919 Tasting Notes
Bourbon: Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Heaven Hill
Age: 12 years
ABV: 68.4% (136.8 proof)
Cost: $60.00
Appearance:
Nice glint of red under the brown and amber.
Nose:
Whoa that’s hot and peppery, but give it a minute and you’ll find caramel and vanilla sweetness and lingering oak. The aromas give every indication that this will be a robust bourbon.
Taste:
As predicted by the aromas, yes this is a hot one—extremely hot. Try it neat but then add a splash of water so that you can experience sweet flavors of caramel and vanilla. There’s a great shift to cinnamon both with and without water, but this overall this is definitely a bourbon to drink with water.
Finish:
Medium length with lingering oak and lingering heat.
Larceny Barrel Proof A120 Tasting Notes
Bourbon: Larceny Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Heaven Hill
Age: NAS, but 6-8 years
ABV: 61.62% (123.2 proof)
Cost: $49.99
Appearance:
Darker than I would have expected, even for being uncut.
Nose:
Brown sugar, nougat, and the sweet aromas that I expect from Larceny hit right away with baking spice emerging.
Taste:
Flavors of vanilla and caramel, as should be expected from a wheated bourbon, along with honey and more nougat for additional sweetness, balanced with oak and tobacco. The flavor are very rich, which sometimes I find lacking in wheated bourbons. Slow-melting ice amps up the creaminess. (I didn’t try it with water because I didn’t want to create regular Larceny.)
Finish:
The medium-length finish has a nice oak and cinnamon element. Faint warmth extended beyond what I really considered to be the finish for a fantastic way of easing into the next sip.
Old Fitzgerald 15-year Bottled in Bond Tasting Notes
Bourbon: Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond decanter series, fall 2019
Distillery: Heaven Hill
Age: 15 years
ABV: 50.0% (100 proof)
Cost: $150.00
Appearance:
Golden brown consistent with its age.
Nose:
Dark caramel and oak but pretty subdued.
Taste:
I immediately knew that this was special. It’s full of caramel, dried dark fruit, cinnamon apples and great oak. Elegant. Creamy. It reminds me bourbon from decades ago.
Finish:
Long with lingering oak and swells of warmth.
Bottom Line
The final batch of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof for 2019—which is the highest proof since batch A116—is more one-dimensional than other ECBP batches and just too hot for my taste. But in a way it’s two-dimensional: heat plus sweet, which is actually a difficult combination to pull off. Definitely try this one with a splash of water and experience how it opens up.
The inaugural release of the Larceny Barrel Proof fired on all cylinders for me. Barrel proof does wonders for Larceny. Barrel-proof wheated bourbon can be phenomenal and with a couple more years (can Heaven Hill build its stock so that it can be 8-10+ years instead of 6-8?) Larceny could easily be the market leader. Be sure to find it in January 2020.
And then there’s the Old Fitzgerald. It’s phenomenal. I can’t hardly say anything more than that. You need to try this bourbon.
Disclaimer: The brand managers kindly sent me samples
for this review, without any strings attached.
Thank you.
Posted on December 21, 2019 by Brian Haara
There’s something about Deatsville. Some of my favorite Heaven Hill single barrels have matured in Deatsville; it’s home of the historic, long-ago-shuttered T.W. Samuels Distillery; it has great bourbon lawsuit stories like the battle between Samuels and the railroad (check it out here: Bourbon Takes on the L&N Railroad–Two Titans of the Late 1800’s…); and roadside pictures that I’ve taken over the years give a glimpse of grandeur springing up in the middle of farmland.
But I have never been inside the T.W. Samuels Distillery. Fortunately, my friend Chasta McIntyre at Mint Julep Experiences found her way inside and shared these pictures. Like other abandoned distilleries, it’s remarkable that equipment, machinery, and supplies seem to have been just left behind. Although it’s unlikely that the T.W. Samuels Distillery will ever produce bourbon again, I hope that its history is preserved. In the meantime, the property continues to be used for aging and finding Deatsville-aged bourbon ought to be on everyone’s to-do list for 2020.
And a special thanks again to Chasta!
Posted on December 13, 2019 by Brian Haara
I previously reviewed The Bourbon Tasting Notebook by Susan Reigler and Mike Veach, which gave us honest reviews of nearly 350 bourbons. Now, following on the success of those tasting notes, Reigler and Veach have joined forces again for The American Whiskey Tasting Notebook, covering American Whiskey except bourbon. And, like their earlier collaboration, these American Whiskey tasting notes are provided without the drama of rankings, stars, or other scoring; that’s up to the reader.
Rye whiskey and other spirits (especially rum, gin, and brandy) have all made a run at being “the next bourbon,” and generally-speaking, those efforts get a little traction and then fizzle. But American Whiskey is where distillers can innovate. It’s almost a test kitchen for spirits. Whereas bourbon is strictly defined and must follow specific rules (which only gets stricter for “Straight Bourbon Whiskey” and “Bottled in Bond”), distillers have room to experiment with blends, unique grains, flavored grains, and more. (However, as Reigler and Veach note, “Rye Whiskey,” “Wheat Whiskey,” and “Corn Whiskey” all have their own specific rules and regulations. The real freedom comes with the basic “American Whiskey” designation.)
The breadth of this book is astounding. I never would have been able to tell you that there were over 230 non-bourbon American Whiskeys, and most of my experience there is limited to American Rye Whiskey. The book’s only notable absence is Charbay, the California distillery with popular rum, brandy, and flavored vodka, but known especially for revolutionizing whiskey by distilling bottle-ready craft beer. Hopefully Charbay’s full hop-flavored whiskey lineup is included in a future Volume II.
It was interesting to see Reigler and Veach’s distinct palates and preferences shine through in their respective tasting notes. Only three of the whiskeys had a genuine “don’t buy this” vibe—notes like “rotten fruit” and “scented dishwashing soap” make the warning pretty clear. But that’s a good thing because the disciplined point of The Tasting Notebook isn’t to persuade, it’s to educate and to let the reader decide; each page has space for the reader’s own thoughts and impressions.
Because I’m a big proponent of knowing which brands are sourced and cutting through baloney when brands imply or leave an impression that they distilled what they’re selling, I appreciated that The Tasting Notebook pointed out numerous brands that source their whiskey (Old Carter, Old Henry Clay, and Kentucky Owl, for instance), but I paused at all of the Michter’s entries. Sourcing wasn’t mentioned for Michter’s, so hopefully that gets updated too.
Reading The Tasting Notebook inspired me to rummage through my shelves and to try many of these non-bourbon whiskey beauties, which helped me understand that the lesson is to not get bogged down in bourbon. Experience the creativity of other American Whiskeys. And let The American Whiskey Tasting Notebook be your guide.
The American Whiskey Tasting Notebook is timed perfectly for the holiday season and would make a great stocking stuffer for the whiskey fan in your life.
Acclaim Press (2019)
$19.95 on Amazon